Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Shellshock and the medicine

First day of my new job, and I feel like I was thrown in to the deep end of the pool. Definitely needed some good wine to ease the brain. Why exactly did I leave the ease and comfort of my job in California for the stress of a high-octane research environment? Too late to go back now, the only way is forward.

2000 Arnoux Echezeux
This is my second bottle of this in the past 6 months or so and it was fantastic. This is silky generous in keeping with the vintage. An herby nuance to the deep red fruits. Typically spicy notes around the edges and a nice earthy streak (not gamy though, more of a light earth). Don’t hesitate to pull the trigger on one if you see it around. Compared to the Vosne Suchots and Romanée-St.-Vivant, this is ready to go and should drink great for another 10+ years, but I don’t see it getting much better than it is now. Maybe improving for another 3-4 years and plateauing for a good while.

2006 Tête Juliénas
One of the joys of returning to Durham is that I get to drink Tête Juliénas from a carafe at Rue Cler, my brother’s restaurant. Michel Tête has been cool enough to put a cuvée of his Juliénas in a 10 litre bag-in-the-box for my brother to serve. It’s great, keeps the wine fresh and lively. The 2006 is lighter than the 2005, not surprisingly, and really takes to the whole carafe treatment. 500mLs of deliciousness.

2005 Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Granite de Clisson
Do I like this more than the Briords? It’s one of those questions that you have to ask, but are hard to answer. This is broader, richer, and more Burgundian than the Briords, but it is still granite based Muscadet. If you haven’t tried this, you should try it, buy more, and cellar them.

19 comments:

Cliff said...

Sounds like noble therapy. Congrats on the change! I look forward to giving the Clisson a second look. It didn't show much when I tried it.

the vlm said...

Thanks. Who said you can never come home again?

I think the Clisson is showing really well right now and I might even say to drink it before the Briords (which I need to try again soon).

Cliff said...

Really?? I haven't had either for awhile now, but the Briords was so forward when I did. I was planning to pull some of both out of storage in the near term. By the way, what's up with starting an academic gig in July? Aren't there union rules against that or something?

the vlm said...

Yeah, 2005 was a rather forward Briords, but I think it was hiding a mess of structure.

Like I said, I need to get back to it. Got an undisturbed case just waiting...

Fiscal year starts July 1 for the NIH, and I've always been a soft-money guy.

slaton said...

I don't have nearly the experience with Pepiere you do -- but 2005 a forward Briords? Wow, I thought that was an immovable rock of a wine that didn't open until it had spent 2-3 days in the fridge. So I definitely agree about a mess of structure. 2006, now that's been a forward, drink-me-now Briords, for me anyway.

I finally tasted the Clissons last Friday and while impressive it almost seemed a little soft for all that rich concentration. The material is remarkable though. I have a few bottles and will probably wait for a little more of that baby fat to subside before trying it again.

the vlm said...

Slaton-

"I finally tasted the Clissons last Friday and while impressive it almost seemed a little soft for all that rich concentration."

I more or less agree, hence my idea of drinking it before the Briords. But really, you should have both and watch their evolution together. The Clisson is new, so I'm not really sure how it will go.

Cliff said...

I managed to confuse myself. The 2005 Clisson came out at the same time as the 2006 Briords. The latter was seriously forward. The 2005 Briords is pretty forward (compared, say to the 2004), but it is a rock of briny, acidic structure.

Cliff said...

Aaargh, I hope that made some semblance of sense: 2005 is a little soft, compared to a more classical year like 2004; but 2006 is much more forward.

the vlm said...

I don't think 2005 was soft, I think it has a lot of baby-fat. To be sure, it is no 1996, or 2002, or 2004.

2006 was a great excuse to let the 2005 sleep.

slaton said...

"2006 was a great excuse to let the 2005 sleep."

Exactly

Very curious about 2007. No Briords here yet but I do have a bottle of the 2007 AC Muscadet on deck.

Jello4 said...

Well, I just had a glass of the Granite de Clisson tonight at Rue Cler and found it a little quiet. Though poured by the glass, only the second half of the glass showed the depth, subtlety, and minerality that I have experienced in the wine before, the first half of the glass being a bit closed and generically Muscadet in high-quality but not show-stopping way. Of course, my palate might have been impaired by the Cali wine dinner I was coming from. I assume the Granite de Clisson was 2005, though I saw neither label nor wine list (I heard "Granite de Clisson" and said, "I need that") - can you confirm, Nathan?

the vlm said...

S-

Yes, the Muscadet, BtG is the Clisson.

Jello4 said...

I meant the vtg. 2005?

Cliff said...

I think it had to be 2005 -- haven't seen a 2006 yet at Chambers Street. Is it out?

CNSmith said...

FWIW, both the '07 Muscadet and CdBriords released very recently. Tasted the Muscadet yesterday (delicious) and Briords will be tonight. The regular is hard not to gulp.

the vlm said...

S-

Look at my post, of course it is the 2005. You're really tired these days, aren't you...

Chuck-

2007 Pepière just landed, not sure about the Briords.

CNSmith said...

Briords 2007.

Just popped the cork.

Awful, nasty stuff. Avoid at all costs.

Cliff said...

Who're you trying to fool??

CNSmith said...

Last night we opened the
2007 Pepiere
2007 Pepiere Briords
2006 Pepiere Briords
2005 Pepiere Clisson
2004 Luneau Papin l d'Or

The 07 Pepiere and 05 Clisson were the crowd favorites.

The 07 Briords is just too intense and rocky for the faint of heart. and the 06 Briords paled compared to 07.

IMO, the 05 Clisson was the most complete.