In between bouts at the Txakoli fest at Six Plates, I met a friend for dinner at one of my favorite local spots, Vin Rouge.
1997 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny
Sometimes referred to as the Clos bottling, this is one I generally don’t buy, but had a chance to get some at an attractive price in Europe a few years back. We had this decanted for about 30 minutes before dinner. The color was a nice ruby, but the nose was a bit muted (big low pressure system), but the palate was all silk and perfection. It was really a killer showing. I would have liked a more complete showing, that is, with more of the aromatic fireworks that Foucault wines can bring. Some coaxing brought out the nose a bit more (headed into some tobacco and dried fruits), but the wine on the palate and the inner mouth perfume were really dazzling. Maybe I’ve made a mistake about the Clos bottling by not purchasing it in the past. Another point to make is about Foucault in warm vintages like 1997 and 2003. Pierre Breton once made a point about how certain soils, aided by conscientious viticulture, remain “cooler” and the vines are deep enough not to shut down since they are still getting water (I’ve found it true for his Perrières site in Bourgueil as well). Thus, I’m very bullish about Foucault in warm years. Anyway, food for thought and discussion.