Thursday, March 19, 2009

Young Rougeard

2006 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition
I had a glass of this and while not showing quite as gloriously as a recent bottle, this has really morphed into an interesting wine. I really have a soft spot for this chardonnay and the other wines of the vigneron Gautier Thévenet. He is doing superb work carrying on a noble tradition of excellence.

2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny
This is the “Clos” or basic bottling, whatever that means in the context of Clos Rougeard. I think this is from vineyards around the cave that are not Bourg. Of course this is way too young, but I don’t remember how the Clos tasted and wanted to give it a shot. I was surprised with how enjoyable it was. While it will certainly be more expressive and dramatic with some time, I was glad to have caught it in an exuberantly youthful stage. What was so striking about it was the incredible coolness of the flavors and the impeccable balance. I bought this off my brothers list at Rue Cler, where it is something like $59. A very fair price for a Rougeard wine, I think. It paired superbly with the brisket on the prix fixe.


Florida Jim said...

Had the '05 Roally with friends in Dallas recently - it was opened with several other nice whites and I found myself coming back to the Roally time and again.
I know they are meant to be aged but they taste so good young.
Best, Jim

slaton said...

Yours is the second favorable report I've heard this week on the 2004 Clos. Unfortunately I own almost no 2004 Rougeard, save for some Bourg (which is obligatory - duh).

But financial hardship be damned: every time I open a bottle of the Foucaults' I wonder why I buy 9/10 of the other wines that I do.

Jack at Fork and Bottle said...

slaton's referring to me; I opened a bottle of the 2004 Clos Rougeard today. Still more than a glass left, but...

My experience echoes yours: "...I was surprised with how enjoyable it was... What was so striking about it was the incredible coolness of the flavors and the impeccable balance."

the vlm said...


The Roally is just great. Hits a sweet spot for me, for some reason. Opened a bottle last night to have a glass of wine. By itself! I don't remember the last time I did that. I'll finish it tonight with some fish.

the vlm said...

Slaton & Jack-

I think the 2004s form top producers of Chinon/Bourgueil/Saumur are so well balanced that they are showing great now.

The 2004 Chinons Domaine and Grezeaux from Baudry are both outstanding right now as well.

I buy a decent bit of Foucault every year, but it is about 1/2 to 1/3 of what I buy from Baudry, for less money.