N.V. Domaine Peyra Côtes d'Auvergne VDQS Mauvais Herbes (2004)
My friends all know of my love for the orange wines from the Auvergne. These wines are definitely an acquired taste, but they remind me of the freakish, moonscape looking vista’s from where they come from. Utterly unique wines that everyone should try at least once, just to see. I wish I had a picture to show you what it looked like. While this isn’t at the level of the Cor en Continu, it is certainly delicious and more accessible. Gunpowder, herbes, strawberry, and minerals on the nose and palate. I like it served on the cooler side and find it does really well with food. These 2003s and 2004s weren’t as strong as earlier vintages, but they are the end of the road for Peyra, a domain no longer in existence. One of the former partners, Jean Maupertuis, is making wine in the Auvergne. Not quite Peyra, but worth a look in.
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The VLM-TR is a way for me to share my views on wines with my loyal followers out there so that they do not have to chase my posts around the internet. It will also contain other pieces of cultural information as I see fit.
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- the vlm
- I have been in and around the wine business my entire adult life. I think that I have a bit of insight after all these years of traveling to wine regions, working in viticulture, working in the wine retail, wholesale, and import business and drinking more than is legal in all 50 states.
5 comments:
I had no idea you were a fan. I expected a snarky dismissal of these hippie winemakers. Maupertuis' wines are wonderful and a little field trip for the senses back to Domaine de Peyra - especially after they have had a little time to recover from bottle shock.
Jason-
Not all the folks involved at Peyra were hippies.
My take on hipsterism in wine is that the wines are hipster first and everything else second. My issue has always been with this type of wine. For me, a wine can be excellent and still be a hipster type. I'm a long time fan and proponent of Clos Tue-Boeuf, for example.
What I've always loved about Peyra, and I've been drinking them for a while now, is that there is very much a sense of the desolation of the Auvergne about them. I love the gunpowder, the iridescent orange, and the rocky undertones.
The wines can be variable from bottle to bottle, but I can deal with that because the beautiful ones are so amazingly unique.
I have had this argument on Peyra's sense of place and some dismiss as only a style. I wholeheartedly agree on the gunpowder - and some argue this is brett.
I drink their wines and I am transported to a place above the tree line, wind blown, empty and quiet. A place where the grapes are barely ripened in the bright sun but cool air. I could never get enough of their older (pre-2004) stuff.
Give me an example of who or what you consider to be hipster first - I probably have not been drinking them. The only one that comes to my mind is Dashe and his Infant Terrible.
tasted the 2004 Peyra Cuvee St Georges at a recent Jenny and Francois tasting in nyc. Blew my fuckin mind. Never had the bottling you just posted and unsure of the difference???....but will certainly be on the look out. Agree with your take hipsterism.
Had this it was ok. Nothing on 2002 Cor En Continu. A crazy wine for sure . . .
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