Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Mom loves Eric Texier

Dinner with my Mom and Dad. Mom loves Châteauneuf, but since I don’t have easy access to my few remaining bottles in the cellar (haven’t quite finished consolidation yet) so I grabbed some currently available in the market. Although it is the red Châteauneuf that holds my mother’s heart, the white really stole the show.

I have stated this before, but I want to be clear on how much I admire what Eric is doing right now. His wines are balanced, complex, and gentle without being at all sloppy. The opposite of where he was headed 8 or 9 years ago. It takes a lot of courage and mental dexterity to change directions like that and to do it well.


2005 Éric Texier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Vieilles Vignes
Wow, another great showing for this wine. Éric is on a mission to single-handedly make me recant my hatred for Châteauneuf Blanc. Electric and beautiful. Not sure what else to say. If you think you hate Châteauneuf Blanc, this wine will at least provide the exception that proves the rule.


2005 Éric Texier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Vieilles Vignes
I found this a bit muddy and slurred. Not being a big fan of Châteauneuf and Grenache based wines to begin with, this was probably not going to hit my fancy. I’m sure there is nothing wrong with it, it’s just young, but it’s not something for me. I have very little use for it.


From dinner again the next night with my aunt arriving from Virginia.

2005 Domaine de Pergault (Éric Texier) Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vielles Vignes 1.5L
This was surprisingly gentle, but not surprisingly complex. Just has a natural feel to it, if that makes sense, and I think that is what Eric is going for these days. It isn’t terribly dark or froooty, but sort of deeply pitched and brooding. Makes it incredibly easy to drink and was a lovely accompaniment to the grilled ribeyes and NY strips. It’ll be interesting to track this over the years as it was much more accessible than expected. Reminded my mom of the magnum of Cuvée Vieilles Fontaines that Alain Voge gave us as a cadeaux after a visit and it does share something in common with that wine. My aunt loved it, another testament to how well Eric si doing with this wine.

13 comments:

tin said...

VLM,
Good notes on Texier (btw. thanks for the tip)and nice point about the balance and gentleness of his wines. Although, I have to say that I find his 06CdRV, Brezme a little uninteresting, a bit pedestrian. Unlike his 06 Domaine de Pergault, VV, Blanc which I find fabulous, fresh, elegant and 'electric' (to quote).

the vlm said...

I haven't had the 2006 Brézème yet, but the 2004 and 2005 versions are both delightful.

The Pergault rouge et blanc are both fantastic IMO.

Good to see you hear, Tin.

Are you a Tottenham supporter now?

Cliff said...

For me the St. Gervais is the standout of the recent Texiers I've tried -- haven't had the Pergault for awhile now. Over the past few years, I've seen a refinement and an easing up on acidity, which could be spiky in the late 1990s wines I had, but not a wholesale change of direction.

Joe said...

Linked. BTW, could you please curse more? I don't curse nearly enough, and you could help me make up for it. ;)

tin said...

No, Arsenal. I like Luka but not enough to cross over to White Hart Lane, and of course Eduardo is back after that bloody injury.

the vlm said...

Cliff-

There was an abrupt and drastic change in direction by Eric. He will tell you the same thing himself. It is especially apparent in his vinification of the red wines.

the vlm said...

Joe-

It's what the fuck I'm here for...

Cliff said...

I definitely see more delicacy and harmony now. What sort of concrete changes did he make? I seem to recall a drastic pairing down of the line-up of wines he produces. Apart from the greater attention he can devote to individual wines, what sort of new winemaking practices are involved?

the vlm said...

Tin-

Good to know, as I'm a rabid Gooner (well as rabid as one can be on this side of the pond). Haven't been to a game at the Emirates yet, will try to get there this year.

I sure hope Eduardo makes a full recovery. I wasn't a huge fan at first, I thought he was a bit out of his depth, but he was really coming on and was starting to find his way in the team and becoming a first class finisher (which is really what you need at Arsenal, with all the chances we create). That was an awful, brutal injury for which there was no good reason.

While I really wanted David Silva, I'm pretty happy with Nasri and I think Theo should prove a lot to handle. We really need defensive cover, unless Song turns out to be the answer. I don't have the same faith in Senderos and Djourou that Wenger does.

the vlm said...

Cliff-

In Eric's words, "I make my red wines like white wines."

Harvesting earlier, not going for exceedingly (artificially) low yields, less extraction, etc.

Cliff said...

I can see that. Thanks

tin said...

Agreed, what could kill us this season is a lack of defensive depth. And we are looking at couple of years of underinvestment in players' portfolio (paying off the Emirates and all). Anyway, do come for a game (and dinner).

Btw. interesting quote from Eric about making his reds like whites, that explains a lot. V. interesting!

Lyle Fass said...

ONLY CDP I can palate is Texier's. I know he also makes a small little Bourbolenc cuvee.