Friday, August 15, 2008

Another Tuesday at Rue Cler

Dinner with some friends at Rue Cler. Lovely, as always.


2006 George Descombes Régnié
Although I’m not as blown away by these wines the way others are, this was delicious. Sappy, bright, and light on its feet. Nice floral/herbal streak running through it. Pillow-y almost. Not a wine for aging, but who cares?

2005 Desvignes Morgon Côte-du-Py Javernières
This wine has shed most of its babyfat and is absolutely, devastatingly good. I think it may be the best wine of the 2005 vintage in Beaujolais. The strong soil-driven, mineral core is what really sets it apart. Ample fruit that comes in waves, firm tannin, and a whiplash on the finish. Delicious and complex, it drinks well now, but should age very, very well (in my experience, Desvignes are among the longest lived wines in the region). As good a Beaujolais as I’ve had. I think I’m going to pick up another case.

8 comments:

Cliff said...

Hi Nathan,

I have to agree about Descombes. I like them, but, at least up to now, I don't see the fuss. Did you try last year's Morgon v.v.? I held onto at least one or two in the interest of science, but am not sure how long it will go.

I'm surprised to hear about the Desvignes, which I love, along with Foillard. Would have thought it would be shut down at this point.

Lyle Fass said...

Regular Regnie right and no VV?

Was it upper or lower parcel Desvignes?

The Descombes wines are for short term aging. Drink 'em young and drink 'em often. It is not a traditional Burgundian vinification it is half traditional and half carbonic so that is not a recipe for aging like say a Coudert or a Desvignes.

jb said...

Agree on the Descombes although my sample is small.

Brunch at Rue Cler last year was one of my favorite meals of the year.

tin said...

Absolutely agree with Desvignes' Javerniers - trully, astonishingly good! The best of 05? I have to admit to a soft spot for Lapierre's SS.

Cliff said...

I'm confused. R&F in 10/07, on the 2005 Descombes Morgon VV:

"The palate had the structure of a Grand Cru from Gevrey Chambertin.... This has the structure to age and improve for 20-25 years I would boldly say."

That seems quite awhile for most wines, no?

the vlm said...

Lyle-

Regular Regnie and normal Javerniers (as if the upper slope was real).

JB-

You're a smart man, even with a small sample.

Tin-

I also like the Lapierre, but it is tempermental stateside and I think that (as Lyle alluded) the semi-carbonic hipster elevage doesn't make for a wine that is as structurally interesting and complex.

Cliff-

If any Beaujolais can stay fresh and vibrant for that long, the Javerniers certainly can. In 2006 I had a 1991 Coudert Fleurie that was still fresh and vibrant and I find Desvignes wines even more structured.

Cliff said...

Right. I was confused by Lyle's earlier comment on the Descombes and it's 1/2 carbonic lasting 20-25 yrs, not the Desvignes and its traditional Burgundian elevage.

tin said...

Agreed about semi carb. elevage masking the finer things in wines. However, that's why I said 'a soft spot', the Lapierre's 05 SS, it's really fun and seductive.