Wednesday, May 21, 2008

2005 Chinon on steroids

These showed up in the local market, and although I have some in the cellar, I thought I would pick one up to try. The Clos Guillot is the Baudrys newest vineyard site (although there is another on the way) and it has a fine exposition near Chêne Vert. It is also where Baudrys small planting of Franc de Pied cabernet franc is located. These vines are afflicted with phyloxera, so the wine will eventually cease to exist. It is a full south-southwest exposition, IIRC, so the vines get plenty of sun and the grapes were very ripe in both 2004 and 2005. I found the 2004 a bit loose for my tastes, especially with the elevated alcohol.

2005 Baudry Chinon Clos Guillot

This was really dark and brooding looking, like a barrel sample. The opaque purple is a bit unusual as cabernet franc is generally not that dark, but it is 2005 after all, the vintage where everything was pushed to the extreme. The alcohol is more than 14.5%, which is very, very high for Chinon, in fact, the wines were the ripest that anyone could remember. Maybe this is the Chinon to introduce your Cult Cabernet or spoofy right bank Bordeaux loving friends to. It is dark, loading with deep fruit, large scaled finishing with tons of tanning and has a mouthfeel that is a completely new experience in Chinon. Complete mouthcoating tannins. There was a trace of heat for me, but it was intertwined with a licquer-like sappiness, so maybe it has the balance to stay in harmony. I’m not sure what kind of advice to give on this wine. It could age into something more balanced, but will always be outsized, IMO. I have half a case and check in 5 years from now. Worth buying at least a few if you plan on following the vineyard. Other folks are more into it than I am and they could be right.


Florida Jim said...

I bought only the Croix Boissee from this house in 2005 and while I think it too is built big, I don't find any lack of clarity or of terroir in that bottling.
I bought several so when you decide to break out the next bottle of yours, I'd have no problem doing likewise with the Boissee. If we happen to be in the same place, so much the better.
Best, jim

Keith Levenberg said...

hm, I have a vague recollection of Lyle telling me that 2005 was the last of the Baudry franc de pied, but what does he know? Do you think he's just BSing me so I don't harass him for 2 cases of the 2006?

the vlm said...

Well, there hasn't been a "commercial" vintage of the Fran de Pied since 2002. Mathieu released a small amount for David and a few other folks. There are only a few rows of vines that don't yet have phyloxera, but it is spreading towards them.

Not sure why you would want multiple cases. The wine needs be be drunk fairly quickly, it isn't for the long haul.

the vlm said...

The Croix Boisee is a terroir (like Grezeaux) that speaks pretty clearly. I think that once Matthieu gets a handle on Clos Guillot (they've only been working it a few years) that we'll get a better handle on that terroir as well.

Lyle Fass said...

There was a little bit still there apparently is what D-lils tells me. so Keith you're in luck. But this time I am getting more than one measly bottle.

Lyle Fass said...

Drinking 2005 Les Grezeaux tonight plus other goodies so will try and reclaim some Baudry posts as you seem to blogging about him every other post.

By the way . . .therapy blows and blogs are the wave of the future.

the vlm said...

Nah, therapy will make a comeback. Too many interesting folks there.

Isn't the 2005 Grezeaux surprisingly open? It was awesome.

There are still a few rows and I think a few cases will end up in NC as well. Probably all go to Rue Cler.