Saturday, April 12, 2008

Really good oaky chenin. There, I said it.

Jo Pithon has had a bit of a checkered history. Part of the disgustingly termed “sugar seekers”, he made uneconomical wines that scored well from particular critics, but wines that no sane person really had an interest in. Over the last couple of years, I’ve had some Pithon wines that I found to be excellent.

2005 Jo Pithon Savennières La Croix Picot

Much like the Chidaine wines from 2005, this has a very Burgundian sense to it. It seems to tame the somewhat wild and crass nature of chenin to a point, but lets it out on the back end. What really distinguishes this wine is the sense that it is really layered for young chenin. If I had one small (itty bitty) gripe it would be that I would have liked maybe a bit more savagery in the structure, that being said, I can always get that from other wines. It has balance, length, and tames the high alcohol of chenin in 2005 with a deft touch. It finishes with stones and fruit, instead of the acid wash of stone you sometimes get. Although it defied my expectations a bit, I found it a pleasant surprise. I should warn folks that it does have a rather noticeable hit of oak. I don’t mind it at all, but those doctrinally opposed may have difficulty. Reminds me of a bigger, less backward, Brézé from Foucault. At $24, it is an excellent value. I think it should drink well throughout its evolution which should be at least 12-15 years, although who knows…

3 comments:

Lyle Fass said...

so many updates!

Loving it.

the vlm said...

I'm trying to act as if people actually read this motherfucker...

slaton said...

Just tried this last night at a tasting and quite enjoyed it. Interesting oxidative style, with a light nuttiness that reminded me of Marcona almonds, and lanolin, albeit with a somewhat more metallic, mineral edge. Really picked up weight and length as it warmed in the glass, I wish I'd been able to spend a few hours with this. I could ask for a little more cut, but being a 2005 perhaps in another year or so the acid will come through a bit more. I found this more layered and interesting than the Domaine aux Moines vertical afterward, although there were a couple of nice wines in that flight.