It isn’t very often that I get to sit down with both of my brothers and their wives for dinner, without folks or kids. We were all in Florida for a wedding so it was perfect opportunity. Rhett from B-21 recommended this restaurant, which was totally old-school. Prime-rib, wood walls, white leather banquets, it was totally cool. We were the youngest people in the joint by about 30 years. The wine list had some cool older Burgundies at prices that had not been adjusted upwards. Storage seemed good, but the corks on the bottles were stained. I suspect that the bottles saw a bit of heat at transport, but have been well stored since.
It was a great night. We got to relax, laugh like hyenas, and drink great Burgundy. Truly, this is a memory to cherish.
2005 Drouhin Chablis 1er Vaillons
Really just OK. Very fat and sweet for Chablis, and not really my cup of tea. I haven’t had many 2005 Chablis, but I guess this is more the norm.
1991 Drouhin Chambolle 1er Amoureuses
This bottle had the worst cork, and was the least of the three 1991s. That being said, on any other night, it would be a centerpiece in and of itself. It had definitely advanced more than the other two wines with the sous bois really showing through and the red fruits on the dryer end of their span. The earthiness partially occludes the Amoureuses-ness, but that is a minor nit against an excellent wine.
1991 Drouhin Musigny
This was decanted and absolutely stunning. The thing about Musigny that makes it so special is that there is a density of flavor that never gets heavy, each part wafting gracefully over the next. Texturally luxuriant with layer after layer ghosting across the palate, but without ever losing shape. This was Musigny in every way and a very fine example of both 1991 and that vineyard. What I love about the way 1991s are showing right now is that they show a density without heaviness, killer precision, and translucency (valued above all other things).
1991 Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Great showing for this wine. Missing any sort of blockiness one associates with Jadot wines. Silken, darkly mineral and earthy with a core of red and blue fruits. This was richer than the Musigny, but not finer. Younger too with more tannin present and a more primary feel to it. While it doesn’t stratch at the inside of your soul in the same way the Musigny did, this was a great wine, and maybe the best Jadot wine I’ve ever had. I worry sometimes that the house style missed the pinnacle of this vineyard, but this did not, at all.
Martell Cordon Bleu
This was my first love in Cognac, and I’ll always have a soft spot for it. Warm, rich, and forgiving if not as interesting as Delemain or more boutique producers. Still, a great way to end the night, chatting and sipping in the warmth of the moment.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Monday, July 7, 2008
There and back again
It probably comes as no surprise to the 5 or so people that read this blog that I’ve spent the last year out in Southern California, more specifically, in Laguna Beach. I can’t really think of a more beautiful and pleasant place to live. My commute in the morning took me by the Crystal Cove state park overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It’s a hell of a thing when your morning commute makes you smile. Well, like Frodo, I had an 11 month journey to and from the West Coast. I left California on June 19th and drove back across, back to Durham to my new job at Duke University. It’s a job with A LOT more responsibility than I’ve ever had or wanted, but I’m really excited at the opportunity to make an impact on the world and stretch myself intellectually.
Day 1: Laguna to Tucson
It got up to 116 in the Arizona desert. That is really ungodly hot. There were some really cool vistas at the California/Arizona. We stayed in the hills on the western edge of town, using all my Marriott points to stay at the Starpass resort. Gorgeous sunset. Had dinner at El Charro, a Tucson institution which looks the same, but has really changed since I was there. The food and service was nowhere near what it had been, before they opened other branches and the old owners were nowhere to be seen. Like they say, you can never go home again, or in this case, to your college town. The Hotel Congress has been gussied up, but it still has a cool vibe. I bought a Club Congress t-shirt to remind me of the old days when I was a young and full of hope and vigor.
Day 2: Tucson to Dallas
Some cool views, but not as cool as Arizona. Once we enter West Texas, things get UGLY. El Paso is a dump. We stop in Odessa for dinner, which is also pretty grubby, but had some pretty good Texas BBQ (not to be confused with actual BBQ, which can only be found in eastern NC). We then get completely pounded by an unbelievable rain storm, the kind you only get in Texas. I think this was part of the system that caused all the flooding in the Midwest. The rain got so hard that I couldn’t see the road, crazy. Got to the east edge of Dallas at about 2:45. Poured a huge glass of scotch and slept like the dead.
Day 3: Dallas to Birmingham
We stopped for an awesome breakfast at some diner on the Louisiana border. Made it to Birmingham with only a little more rain. Stayed at the Highlands Hotel which is an updated, hipsterized old hotel. The rooms are a bit tight, but that’s fine with me. The best part is that it right around the corner from Frank Stitt’s empire. We had dinner at the Highlands Bar and Grill, the original restaurant. The food was a bit dated, very 1990s, but it was perfectly executed. I had a cold cucumber soup that was soul satisfying, zucchini blossoms that were light as air, a grit cake with fresh mushrooms that was southern and yet French at the same time. For my entrée, I had veal loin and sweetbreads. My companion had the scallops, which she claimed were delicious, but I didn’t try. As an aperitif, we had peach Bellinis from fresh peach juice. Not as good as the original concoction, but fresh and delicious. We also had a glass of 2006 Nigl grüner-veltliner Kremstal which was good. With dinner we had a bottle of 2002 Chevillon Nuits Vaucrains which was tight, as I suspected of a young Vaucrains, but exhibited very good character for a 2002, a vintage I have found lacking in terroir. This wouldn’t be hard to pick out as Nuits blind, and if you knew the producer, this was most surely Vaucrains. It never really opened up, and in retrospect, I should have had it decanted. However, its class still shown through and the fat of my dish really did ameliorate some of the tannin. I’d check back in with this in 3-5 years.
Day 4: Birmingham to Nashville
Ahh, finally a nice easy day to my good friend jblackwood’s place. Watched the Dutch exposed by the Russians in HD (Arshavin was brilliant, in case you missed it), then went to the pool for a dip and mohitos before dinner. Nashville has generally been a restaurant wasteland, but the last two times I’ve been there I’ve had nice meals. Not Highlands nice, but good. With dinner we had a bottle of 1997 Castello di Lispida merlot which started with a very promising nose, but faded to be merely good, and a fantastic bottle of 2002 Montevertine. I was never as big a fan of the 2002 Pian del Ciampolo as John, but this was a different story. Snappy and totally alive, and utterly delicious. Straight sangiovese (with some canaiolo), no chaser. Back to the case and the pool for some healthy splashing about before a good nights rest.
Day 5: Nashville to Linville
What better way to follow up a wonderful day with John and Trinka than to stop in to see FlaJim at his mountain retreat. Upon arrival, we jumped right into a dinner party. Jim has posted about the wines on Wine therapy, so I won’t go into them here. Suffice it to say that the wines were good, but they were hardly the point. Friendship and relaxation were. The main thing was the lovely company and wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. Everything moves at a friendly pace, if that makes any sense, and it suits Jim to a T.
Day 6: Returning to the Shire
It’s been a very strange year for me. I have always been more of a creature of opportunity than ever having any real “life plan”, so when I had a chance to move to Southern California, I jumped at it. I had a marvelous time there, and was, frankly, loathe to leave. There is a lot to be said for the smell of the ocean and the sound of the waves smashing against the cliffs at Laguna Beach being your lullaby. I came a long way towards healing the wounds of a failed relationship and made some very real strides professionally, enough that I was recruited for my new position at Duke, one that promises to really challenge me. They say you can never come home again, and to some extent it’s true, I’m a different guy than I was a year ago (and it isn’t just the 10-15 lbs of Japanese-cuisine inspired weight) and although Durham is as familiar as an old pair of 501s, everyone here has moved on as well. In some ways, I am very much like a returning Hobbitt, I am a more serious guy than I was a year ago, with more purpose and much more responsibility (something I’ve successfully avoided my entire life).
I had a great time in SoCal and there were a lot of people who made it that way. From a wine perspective: Matt C. and the Lyleistas, Jim & Jim, Greg K at the wine pavilion, Dan and John at Hi-Times. Last but not least, the fact that anyone actually reads this blog is a bit humbling, so thank you and I hope to be back on track and updating on a much more regular basis.
Now if I can just find that bottle of Old Winyards…
Day 1: Laguna to Tucson
It got up to 116 in the Arizona desert. That is really ungodly hot. There were some really cool vistas at the California/Arizona. We stayed in the hills on the western edge of town, using all my Marriott points to stay at the Starpass resort. Gorgeous sunset. Had dinner at El Charro, a Tucson institution which looks the same, but has really changed since I was there. The food and service was nowhere near what it had been, before they opened other branches and the old owners were nowhere to be seen. Like they say, you can never go home again, or in this case, to your college town. The Hotel Congress has been gussied up, but it still has a cool vibe. I bought a Club Congress t-shirt to remind me of the old days when I was a young and full of hope and vigor.
Day 2: Tucson to Dallas
Some cool views, but not as cool as Arizona. Once we enter West Texas, things get UGLY. El Paso is a dump. We stop in Odessa for dinner, which is also pretty grubby, but had some pretty good Texas BBQ (not to be confused with actual BBQ, which can only be found in eastern NC). We then get completely pounded by an unbelievable rain storm, the kind you only get in Texas. I think this was part of the system that caused all the flooding in the Midwest. The rain got so hard that I couldn’t see the road, crazy. Got to the east edge of Dallas at about 2:45. Poured a huge glass of scotch and slept like the dead.
Day 3: Dallas to Birmingham
We stopped for an awesome breakfast at some diner on the Louisiana border. Made it to Birmingham with only a little more rain. Stayed at the Highlands Hotel which is an updated, hipsterized old hotel. The rooms are a bit tight, but that’s fine with me. The best part is that it right around the corner from Frank Stitt’s empire. We had dinner at the Highlands Bar and Grill, the original restaurant. The food was a bit dated, very 1990s, but it was perfectly executed. I had a cold cucumber soup that was soul satisfying, zucchini blossoms that were light as air, a grit cake with fresh mushrooms that was southern and yet French at the same time. For my entrée, I had veal loin and sweetbreads. My companion had the scallops, which she claimed were delicious, but I didn’t try. As an aperitif, we had peach Bellinis from fresh peach juice. Not as good as the original concoction, but fresh and delicious. We also had a glass of 2006 Nigl grüner-veltliner Kremstal which was good. With dinner we had a bottle of 2002 Chevillon Nuits Vaucrains which was tight, as I suspected of a young Vaucrains, but exhibited very good character for a 2002, a vintage I have found lacking in terroir. This wouldn’t be hard to pick out as Nuits blind, and if you knew the producer, this was most surely Vaucrains. It never really opened up, and in retrospect, I should have had it decanted. However, its class still shown through and the fat of my dish really did ameliorate some of the tannin. I’d check back in with this in 3-5 years.
Day 4: Birmingham to Nashville
Ahh, finally a nice easy day to my good friend jblackwood’s place. Watched the Dutch exposed by the Russians in HD (Arshavin was brilliant, in case you missed it), then went to the pool for a dip and mohitos before dinner. Nashville has generally been a restaurant wasteland, but the last two times I’ve been there I’ve had nice meals. Not Highlands nice, but good. With dinner we had a bottle of 1997 Castello di Lispida merlot which started with a very promising nose, but faded to be merely good, and a fantastic bottle of 2002 Montevertine. I was never as big a fan of the 2002 Pian del Ciampolo as John, but this was a different story. Snappy and totally alive, and utterly delicious. Straight sangiovese (with some canaiolo), no chaser. Back to the case and the pool for some healthy splashing about before a good nights rest.
Day 5: Nashville to Linville
What better way to follow up a wonderful day with John and Trinka than to stop in to see FlaJim at his mountain retreat. Upon arrival, we jumped right into a dinner party. Jim has posted about the wines on Wine therapy, so I won’t go into them here. Suffice it to say that the wines were good, but they were hardly the point. Friendship and relaxation were. The main thing was the lovely company and wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. Everything moves at a friendly pace, if that makes any sense, and it suits Jim to a T.
Day 6: Returning to the Shire
It’s been a very strange year for me. I have always been more of a creature of opportunity than ever having any real “life plan”, so when I had a chance to move to Southern California, I jumped at it. I had a marvelous time there, and was, frankly, loathe to leave. There is a lot to be said for the smell of the ocean and the sound of the waves smashing against the cliffs at Laguna Beach being your lullaby. I came a long way towards healing the wounds of a failed relationship and made some very real strides professionally, enough that I was recruited for my new position at Duke, one that promises to really challenge me. They say you can never come home again, and to some extent it’s true, I’m a different guy than I was a year ago (and it isn’t just the 10-15 lbs of Japanese-cuisine inspired weight) and although Durham is as familiar as an old pair of 501s, everyone here has moved on as well. In some ways, I am very much like a returning Hobbitt, I am a more serious guy than I was a year ago, with more purpose and much more responsibility (something I’ve successfully avoided my entire life).
I had a great time in SoCal and there were a lot of people who made it that way. From a wine perspective: Matt C. and the Lyleistas, Jim & Jim, Greg K at the wine pavilion, Dan and John at Hi-Times. Last but not least, the fact that anyone actually reads this blog is a bit humbling, so thank you and I hope to be back on track and updating on a much more regular basis.
Now if I can just find that bottle of Old Winyards…
Friday, June 13, 2008
Sometimes, it's just eh...
You know how sometimes you have those nights where none of the wines really get you interested? Well, this was one of those nights. Although none of these were burdened with the tag of greatness (maybe I’ll write about that sometime), some of these wines had the obligation to be more interesting than they were, but just didn’t come through. Sometimes wines surprise, sometimes they disappoint. The food was pretty mediocre as well, but I’m used to that in Orange County (CA). Oh well.
1998 Jean Milan Brut Cuvée Symphorine
I found this too sweat for me. I’ve like the Terres de Noel in the past, but
1985 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Clos du Roi
This bottle was in pretty rough shape, however, it ended up being a decent enough drop, even if was more mature wine than really screaming
1985 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er
This bottle wasn’t pristine either and it started out so funky that you would subsidize Hubert to get rid of those old stanky barrels. Sometimes air will help a wine get out of that stage, and for a fleeting moment, it looked to have turned a corner. That was a mirage. The bottom basically fell out and there was nothing to enjoy.
I don’t know about 2002
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Jeebus in Eden
This was maybe the calmest, most laid-back initial jeebus I’ve ever been to. Actually, I’d call it a nice evening out rather than a jeebus. It just happened to involve a good amount of wine and wine-related conversation. I feel very comfortable around wine-business lifers. Those of us who have been around the wine business for 15+ years (30 in their cases) I find share a similar perspective and language that makes it easy to communicate ideas about wine. The notorious Eden Mylunch, Mike Greene, and la très charmant Françoise Gouges. We dined at Restaurant 2117 in
Tarlant Blanc de Blancs La Vigne d'Antan
Initially was a bit warm (anyone who has drunk with me knows I like my wines to start cold), but seemed serious, doughy, and precise enough. Something I would like to have again when I would pay more attention.
2001 Peillot Altesse de Montagnieu Cuvée Buster
This was alive and interesting, although it didn’t really have the verve that I love in Peillot’s Altesse. It was always a bigger version, but this one almost falls over into viognier territory, but never quite. I would have drunk this a couple of years ago if it were mine, but
2004 Bellivière Jasnières Les Rosiers
I was disappointed in this wine. Not that there was anything wrong with it, just that it was bigger and broader than I had hoped without the real cut that this wine can possess. 2004 was a warm year and the wines from chenin have tended to be big, a bit sweet, but kind and snuggly. This was an example of that, but I must admit, I was hoping it would have held on to more cut.
1999 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Steinertal
This was excellent. Has shed its baby-fat and started to broaden into something more complex, but without losing some of the fruit and mineral zing. We talked about Alzinger for a while. He’s sort of the Yoda of vingerons in the Wachau. There are others that get more press, and others whose range I like more (Knoll for one), but every time I drink an Alzinger wine, I wonder why I don’t own more.
I think the provenance of this bottle was correct… This was another example of how well the 1988s are doing right now. My nemesis over at Rockss and Fruit talks about 88-it is. He’s full of shit. This wine was in an excellent spot, drinking wonderfully, and seamless besides. I tore the bottle out of Mike’s hand at one point. It has started to go tertiary, so it didn’t have the preserved fruit of some other excellent 1988s I’ve had, but it was still fresh, lively, and balanced, even if the emphasis wasn’t on fruit, but on an overall sense of Nuits St. Georges, and Les St. Georges in particular. There is something about the airy mouthfeel combined with depth and palate presence that this vineyard has which is unmatched in Nuits St. Georges. I’m not the first to note this, but I’m not really a Nuits St. Georges guy or really a big Gouges fan, but this was really excellent.
1993 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Rochioli
Mike brought this as a sort of experiment, just to see how it would show. I was surprised at how exuberant it was. There was some real acid cut to the fruit, the nose was ripe cherries and an hery edge that I associate with Rochioli (almost, but not exaclt garrigue-ish, but something in that neighborhood). Anyway, we were all surprised at the structure and the undeniable deliciousness of it. The problem came when you tried to finish a glass, or pour another one. The fruit had a hard candy (candy apple coating) quality to it that made it just too much for us. I’m still trying to figure out how all those disparate parts fit together.
2000 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese
Raring to go and in a very nice spot. A kinder, gentler, Brücke Auslese. Hasn’t quite gone secondary, with only the barest hints of anything but honey, rocks and fruit. Maybe a bit of hay or something. A nice way to end the evening, sipping on Auslese and talking wine with people who know the difference. This is why I do shit like this.
Sorry
Given my impending move, I've been running around like crazy, so I haven't done a good job of keeping the blog up to date. Some of you might even have had to resort to reading Rockss and Douche, and for that I am truly sorry.
I had a lot of great wine back east and will tell you all about it soon.
My readership numbers have declined precipitously without content, so I'm going to do my best to keep it coming. You people are voracious.
Thanks for your patience, I hope you keep coming back.
If not, you're stupid fucks who deserve the shitty wine you probably drink.
I had a lot of great wine back east and will tell you all about it soon.
My readership numbers have declined precipitously without content, so I'm going to do my best to keep it coming. You people are voracious.
Thanks for your patience, I hope you keep coming back.
If not, you're stupid fucks who deserve the shitty wine you probably drink.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Back East
I have to head back east for a about 10 days to go to a wedding and prepare for my move back. I might not be able to keep the content flowing, but I'll try to do the best I can for all 4 people who read this.
Meanwhile, this is where Andre gets his mojo for finding great Spanish wines.
Meanwhile, this is where Andre gets his mojo for finding great Spanish wines.
1999 Schaefer, time to go
Since Lyle is over at Rockss and Fruit falsely comparing 2007 to 1996, I thought it was my duty to put some real information about German wine on the internet. Just to preface, I’m pretty sure that of the “Theise” guys, Schaefer is the man.
1999 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese
This wine was so beautiful when it was young that I couldn’t keep my hands off of it, which is why this was my last bottle. I think I caught this one just where I like it, before the kerosene starts, but with some flavor development. 1999 was never the strictest of vintages, but the framing structure has held up OK. There are still a few flowers although things are tending towards the honeysuckle end of the spectrum. Yellow plum compote is what comes to mind, I have no idea why. Reminds me of a Chistian Ferber confiture. After a couple of days in the fridge (I went out of town) it sort of became flimsy and a bit plodding. Still drinkable, but not nearly as good as that first evening. My advice would be to begin finishing these off, but it is a fact that other folks like their German wines with more tertiary aromas than I do. For me, when you start to lose the crystalline etched structure and flavor, you begin to lose what I love most about Riesling in the
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