tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2723564776266944952024-02-06T18:34:50.137-08:00The Vulgar Little Monkey Translucency ReportThe VLM-TR is a way for me to share my views on wines with my loyal followers out there so that they do not have to chase my posts around the internet.
It will also contain other pieces of cultural information as I see fit.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.comBlogger223125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-74340972513230715612012-12-14T11:35:00.000-08:002012-12-14T11:36:12.196-08:00Best red value?<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2010 Texier Côtes du Rhône</span></b></u></div>
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<br />
Just a quick note on this wine since I’ve been through more
than a case without posting about it anywhere. From grenache grown in Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban,
this wine has a beautiful, translucent ruby color and a haunting nose of sour
cherries with a mélange of herbs and other mildly savory notes as well as
floral topnotes. I like to give it a bit of a decant as I find it helps the
aromatics. I’m a bit of a sucker for Eric’s wines, but I think that this is a
truly exceptional vintage for this particular bottling. A stunning value that
I’m buying in caseloads. This may be the best red wine value out there if you
have tastes similar to mine.</div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-69163150493598775182012-12-14T11:33:00.000-08:002012-12-14T11:36:54.075-08:00Earlier than expected<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2011 P<span style="font-size: large;">é</span>pi<span style="font-size: large;">è</span>re Muscadet</span></b></u></div>
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<br />
With excellent Kumamoto (on the east coast, who’da thunk)
and decent Malpeque and Blue Point oysters, its usual dominant self. Fucking
Marc is a demi-god.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2010 Guy Breton Morgon Vielles Vignes</span></b></u></div>
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<br />
Another very pretty and delicious bottle of this wine.
Perhaps a bit tighter than others. Whispy berryish fruit mixed with herbs and
some purple flowers. A meadow. Should be even better in a couple of years. A
wine that is often overlooked by Beaujolais lovers.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2002 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot</span></b></u></div>
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<br />
I picked up some of these on a lark as it was a screaming
deal and part of my auction bottom feeding for wines in or near a drinking
window. While this is undeniably young, it showed superbly last night.
Everything one could ask of a Clos Vougeot, dark, brooding, deeply pitched
stony blue and black fruits. There was a whiff of bitter chocolate, but more
like earth than torrefication, mixed with all sorts of sous bois notes
underpinned by leather. I don’t think I’m doing justice to how deep the nose
was. On the palate there was much more evidence of the wines youth. Very firm
tannins that aren’t choppy but refined but have evolved past the spot where
they cut the finish short. With rich winetry food, this was fantastic. I think
that in another 5-7 years the tannins will soften enough to be in a great spot
for me with fruit still there and the beginning of the earthy elements shading
savory. For others, they may want to wait 15 years or so for the wine to fully
resolve.<br />
<br />
</div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-88219109682372601652012-12-07T09:23:00.000-08:002012-12-07T09:24:25.037-08:00Maybe the kids are alright<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">1996 Giovanni Corino Barolo Arborina</span></b></u></div>
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<br />
Very pretty nose full of cherry compote and savory notes. I
really dug the texture as well. Some of these modernist Barolo are really
turning out nicely, if different from traditionally styled wines. This is good
aromatically and the palate is heading towards resolution.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tannin that remains is of the finer sort
and compliments food nicely. Corino has always done pretty well for me. It has
a Barolo headiness with the relative gentleness of La Morra. There are some
nice spicey compliments to the normal fruit and savory notes, although not so
much rose petal. This is lovely now, but should improve over the short term.
Those who like Barolo with the fruit gone should wait longer, but you probably
wouldn't own this wine anyway.</div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-10556120728177642902012-12-04T13:25:00.000-08:002012-12-07T09:24:15.316-08:00Well, I'll be...<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2006 Château Pradeaux Bandol</span></b></u></div>
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I read a note on a wine BB that this was open for business
and thought to myself, “That can’t be true.” I couldn’t get the thought out of
my mind, so I grabbed a bottle from the shop and took it for dinner at Vin
Rouge with my hachis parmentier. I’ll be damned if that wasn’t 100% correct.
This was more open than any young Pradeaux Bandol I’ve ever had. Hands down.
Full of leathery, dark red fruits with that typical tree bark woodsyness that I
associate with this wine. Really and truly sauvage and animale, without being
dirty or bretty. OK, so this is still Pradeaux Bandol, so it’s not without
structure, but it isn’t a mouthful of sand. It opens to show some of the
garrigue and lavender you’d expect and served a nice foil to the hearty simple
food. Really a dynamite bottle that should easily improve for 5-10 years and
last who knows how long. Well, the internet is good for<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>something I guess.</div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-50222627385736520932012-11-29T12:03:00.000-08:002012-11-30T08:16:35.349-08:00St. Urban to the rescue<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">1999 Nikolaihof Riesling Spätlese Reserve Steiner Hund</span></b></u></div>
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Really pretty, very Steiner Hund nose right out of the gate.
Something about this wine just screams alpine meadow with its floral bouquet
and sunny disposition. On the palate the wine is more or less resolved and
really feels natural, if that makes any sense. I’ve always felt that way about
these wines, sort of like Clos Roche Blanche, they just have a texture that I
associate with the best of natural wines as well as a outdoorsy wildness to the
aromatics. It also has a note of OFF to it that I also, weirdly associate with
natural wines (counter-intuitively, I find it very pleasant). A very good wine
and one I think should be consumed in the next couple of years. I plan to.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">1996 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Ried Schutt</span></b></u></div>
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My last bottle of what was my first Austrian wine purchased
for cellaring. A challenging year, with all sorts of hail and rot and botrytis.
This wine doesn’t show those things, with the exception of some botrytis. The
color is a darker golden and the nose is a piercing and intense blend of rocks
and grape skins. It just smells acidic, in a very good way. As the wine warms
and opens, a whole bundle of other Riesling aromatics come out, with the
thankful exception of diesel and lactic notes, neither of which appeal to me.
The mouthfeel has a density and richness sliced through with penetrating
acidity. With time everything sort of balances out without ever losing
freshness. This was a great showing for an excellent wine from a great vineyard
in a difficult vintage. Yet more evidence to producer and vineyard over
vintage.</div>
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<br /></div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-40320760466096963462012-11-27T10:54:00.000-08:002012-11-27T10:54:55.198-08:00Accept no substitute<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Old friends of the family came down to visit and brought
with them some MD lump crab meat for some fantastic MD crab cakes. There really
is no substitute for the real thing.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2009 Michel Gahier Chardonnay Arbois Les Crets</span></b></u></div>
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Some people have claimed to find this wine “too vintage
marked”, whatever that means. I found it to be excellent, just like every
Gahier wine I’ve had so far. This was clean, bright, and well proportioned.
Plenty of yellow pitted fruits and stone nuances. Lively and bright, a svelte
middleweight. I think this would probably age pretty well for 7-10 years, but
for my palate, I can enjoy it now. This was a superb match for the crab cakes.
For the price and reasonable availability, Gahier is becoming my go to source
for Jura wines.</div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Griffe du Marquis</span></b></u></div>
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might be even better and showing a more savory side. Truly great wine.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2010 St. Innocent Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard</span></b></u></div>
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spice notes on the top and some earth underneath. I liked the sense of
structure that it had. Not a big wine, but well framed. This fit well with a
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over a few years, but there is no shame in drinking it now. I found that it
liked about an hour in the decanter.</div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">2009 Broc Cellars Vine Starr Red</span></b></u></div>
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I’ve really been enjoying Chris Brockway’s wines over the
last couple of months and this zinfandel might be my favorite. Made in a lower
octane style, the wine presents a face of zinfandel that I haven’t seen for a
while. What greats you are earthy and savory notes, not the fruit jam that so
many others offer. You have to wait a while for the fruit, but it's there. Went really well with food, as it has every time I've had it. I'm interested to see how this develops, but I only have a single bottle left to me now. I guess I'll give it 2-3 years? I think Chris is making the kind of wines I've been looking for from CA and I'm really excited to drink through all of them. Speaking of the real thing, this is it.</div>
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the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-59554188425452841392012-11-16T07:37:00.000-08:002012-11-16T07:37:15.084-08:00Headcheese and hachis<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Met up with my friend Noel after a long slog at the shop for
some headcheese and hachis parmentier at the bar of Vin Rouge. We decanted both
of these bottles and drank them over a couple of hours.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>2006 Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin</u></b></span></div>
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Started out tight with only a hint of fruit and spice on the
nose. With some time it became more expansive, the spice giving way to other
earthy and woodsy notes while the fruit deepened in pitch and in weight. Nicely
balanced with good tannic structure, this develops into a lovely mid-weight
Gevrey with wood and soil tones. I think it will probably be even better in 2
or 3 years. This could be one of those sneaky villages wines that someone will
pull out of their ass in 15 years that blows you away.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Griffe du Marquis</b></u></span></div>
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Holy crap is this good. The texture is pure velvet and
brings to mind the old cliché, iron fist in a velvet glove. Lots of fruit and
flowers followed by minerals over the structure. Not aromatically complex yet,
even after decanting, but really succulent on the palate. It makes me want to
say, “very fine, indeed.” Part of me thinks this is the best Beaujolais ever
made.</div>
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the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-49519786519189021692012-11-13T12:39:00.003-08:002012-11-30T08:16:06.856-08:00Score one for Peter and Levi<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla
Pasada "1/15" Nº 10</b></u></span></div>
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OK, now this is more like it. My last bottle of this seemed
confused. After reading a tweet from Levi about a great bottle that he and
Peter Liem had enjoyed, I decided to open one of mine at Bar Mateo, the new
tapas bar downtown. We drank this out of red wine glasses instead of sherry
glasses and it helped the wine to blossom, we also followed it over the course
of several hours. It has a cool copper color and the nose is a million things
at once. The most salient feature of the wine is the umami-like quality it has
on the palate. The nose has saline notes that give way to raw almond skin and
then to dried yellow fruitcake like fruits. Went really well with most of the
food but especially well with some Iberico and Johnston County Mangalista ham.
I don't have any idea whether to age this or not. I have a few more bottles
that it will be hard not to drink soon.</div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-42847467873575174222012-11-09T06:14:00.000-08:002012-11-30T08:13:19.951-08:00Yes darling, I still drink Bourgogne Blanc<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>2010 V&S Morey Chassagne 1er Caillerets</b></u></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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Starting out very tight, wood marked, and sullen, this was
placed to the side while we enjoyed yet another excellent, if young, bottle of
2009 Pépière Clisson. After about another hour, we jumped back in and the wine
had come to life. All of the melon, citrus and yellow pit fruit you would
expect from Caillerets, as well as a nice mineral tang. The oak retreats enough
for me to supply a nice spice top note that I find appealing with young
chardonnay. For me, this only works if there is the good acidity to frame the
wood and adequate mineral notes to underpin the spice. This is really a
fantastic young vintage of this wine, which I have enjoyed for years and year
from their father Bernard. I think you should wait at least another 12-18
months to let things integrate, although with air this is good now. Given the
current state of white Burgundy, who knows what the long term future is. Mine
won’t last more than 5-7 years.</div>
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<br /></div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-31220323934766787022012-11-06T13:55:00.000-08:002012-11-14T07:44:31.455-08:00Erix Texier for President<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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It’s always great to see my friends Eric and Laurence
Texier. They are always a pleasure to have around and wonderful people to talk
with. Conversation is never lacking and often goes into the wee hours. Every
time I’m around Eric I learn something or he forces me to think about my
positions, whether they change or not. Eric thinks both more broadly and more
deeply about vine growing and wine making than just about anyone I’ve met.
Combine that with a probing intellect and I’m on board for Erix Texier for
President of Wine.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We gathered at Vin Rouge in Durham to have dinner and get
into some wines. It was an unfortunate night for wines, as many of them showed
poorly, even wines that I’ve had many times and can’t find an explanation in
any damage, all the bottles were in perfect condition. The weather was crazy,
it being pre-Sandy. It really felt and tasted like hurricane weather, as those
from this part of the world will understand. Honestly, I think this really affected
the wines, although I have no scientific proof ,I have theories on low and high
pressure, etc.. Also, several of the wines showed better a couple of days later
after the low pressure had passed.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But it is just wine and Sandy did much more than that to many people. Fortunately, everyone i know ended up OK. Do your best to support those that did not. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>N.V. Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Good, but a bit sweeter and more wood marked than I
remember. Good texture and zip.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2010 Landron Muscadet Amphibolite</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A flat and disappointing bottle. Not sure what the deal is
here, we barely touched it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2004 Éric Texier Condrieu Janrode</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I don’t normally drink viognier, but when I do, it’s Texier
Condrieu. Seriously, most viognier is laborious and heavy, not this one. Still
lithe and deft, even after this many years in bottle. Maybe doesn;’t have the
zing it did as a younger wine, but it isn’t old. It’s not young either. I doubt
anyone has any left but my friend Ken, but if you do, this would be great at
Thanksgiving.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2001 Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I don’t remember anything about this, but I know it was
opened.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1999 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Ried Schütt</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This bottle was muted and strange in contrast to a smashing
bottle a few months before. It showed better a few days later.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1999 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like the Knoll, this came across as stunted. Five days
later, the remainder of the bottle was good, if not the show stopper I was
expecting.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1999 Éric Texier Brézème Mise Tardive</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This was the focus of the evening as Eric doesn’t have any
bottles of this remaining and this was my last one. This has been a
temperamental wine for its entire life with bottles ranging from terrible to
profound. This particular bottle was a very good bottle. It was meaty and
smoky, but in a graphite way, not a bacon way with dried darker fruits and a
really seamless texture. It had a savory bottle weight to it and a cool hint of
lavender on the nose. This bottle showed great balance on the palate between
the acids, savory and fruit notes and the last remaining tannin (not much). It
was the texture and the inner mouth perfume where this shined. Glad that I
saved this bottle and even happier I got to open it with Eric.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1999 Ogier Côte-Rôtie</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Aromatically stunted and a bit wood marked on the palate.
Four days later this was fading. Oh well, a bottle wasted.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2008 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine
Domaine de Pergaud</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sandy totally kicked this beautiful magnum in the face. The
palate was refined and silky, as we’ve come to expect from Eric and this site,
but there was absolutely no nose to speak of. Well, that all changed<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>four days later when I finished the rest of
the magnum, again while cooking at home. The nose was buoyant with herbs and
flowers around what I have begun to think of as the savory Brézème core. There
is something very special about these vines and even in difficult vintages like
2008, they have something very interesting to say.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2011 Marcel Lapierre Morgon</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ve been drinking tons of this as it is so delightful now.
This bottle was decidedly blah in comparison. Still, it was Lapierre Morgon,
which is like pizza, always good. It was finished that evening.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2001 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Reduced and crappy. I couldn’t get past that and didn’t
touch another drop.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1986 Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele </b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This was a real bummer because I had a really wonderful
bottle with Sophie a few months back and I always like to try at least one
bottle of American wine while Eric is here.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1999 Amiot-Servelle Chambolle 1er Les Amoureuses</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Another muted wine, this wine was a bit angular as well.
There was fruit buried on the palate, but not much could be discerned. Three
days later, I drank the rest while preparing dinner, and wow, what a
difference. Although I imagine it would have been brighter had I opened it and
consumed iut the same night, the nose had layers of fruit, woodsy
not-quite-sous-bois aromas and more fruit and spice on the palate with the
beginning of the umami thing that has come to characterize good Burgundy
beginning to hit its stride. Too bad Sandy fucked this very good wine.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-16971840402709815942012-10-30T12:07:00.000-07:002012-10-31T12:01:43.011-07:00That bitch, Sandyruined my trip to NY and Joe Dressner memorial dinner for Partners in Health (a worthy cause if you are looking for one) as well as the Louis/Dressner sort-of portfolio tasting.<br />
<br />
Instead, you'll get some notes on wine that are not LDM.<br />
<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">
My brother has had a hell of a year, so he wanted a quiet
birthday. A few friends got together for some simple food and some kick ass
wines. We had one of those nights, which we have been due mind you, where all
the wines showed really, really, well. This is my first really excellent
experience with 1996 red Burgundy and gives me high expectations for what
remains in my cellar.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2006 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling
Spätlese trocken</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This was soil inflected, classic and pretty. It didn’t have
a lot of diesel or lactic qualities that personally put me off. It was very
svelte and stylish and easy to drink. The minerals were of the clear brook
variety and there was a smattering of riverside herbs and flowers. The fruit
was the faintest white peach pit. A very good wine that we found in the right
spot. Personally, I don’t see much more interest in short to medium term
development. Those into the truffle thing would probably put this away for 15
years and maybe get there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2008 Gilbert Picq Chablis Dessus La Carriere</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From magnum. Evidently, a hefty proportion of this was
bottled in magnum due to the quality of the vintage for this wine. Our
experience here doesn’t disagree. This is quintessential Chablis. Although Picq
doesn’t have the best terroir, he does have old vines and a very clean approach
to presenting the wines. This was saline and mineral with seashells and rocks
galore. There were hints of green apple and maybe a kind of theoretical tart
melon that doesn’t exist, but that I can imagine. While I suspect we should
have treated this more seriously, it was just so good that we didn’t stop to
have any big discussion about it other than, ”Fuck!! This is good!”. This is
ready enough for me right now, but should age gracefully and interestingly for
10-12 years, if not more. I suspect that it will develop that savory, chicken
broth umami thing with a decade in the cellar.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>2009 Pavelot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Dominode</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ve heard some folks saying that 2009s are showing well so
I decided to check in on this one. While young, it is certainly enjoyable. A
bit of wood spice frames some distinctly cherry-ish fruit. The structure is
full, but not imposing, most likely due to the baby fat hanging on it. This
comes across as a very sauve and classy Savigny, which should come as no
surprise. This went relatively quickly as the first red of the night, so I
didn’t have a chance to see if it closed down with air. If you have a good bit,
I think it’s educational and fun to check in with a wine like this at this
point.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1996 Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmes</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wow, this is remarkable and much, much improved over my last
bottle from 2007. This has a beautiful ruby color with only the slightest hint
of turning ruddy. The nose is explosive and beautiful with layers of fruit,
sous bois, and an umami type mushroom quality. The fruit is deeply pitched red
pitted fruit, bordering on blue. It is long, deep and seamless. The palate is
caressing and inviting, with the fruit rolling over it and leaving an
aftertaste while the other nose hover like ghosts above it. The structure is
such that it is a whole. The acids prop it up, the tannins hold it together
such that it stands up to food and each taste clears your palate with your
mouth watering for another. Maybe the best wine I’ve yet had from Ghislaine and
in a beautiful place for me right now. It’ll be hard to keep my hands off at
this point, but those that want more tertiary should probably give it another
5-7 years after watching how this has evolved.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><br /></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>1996 Edmond Cornu Corton-Bressandes</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaner and more restrained than the Barthod, but still
gorgeous. Again, my last bottle of this a few years back really wasn’t that
enjoyable, but this bottle is a different story. There is a slightly smoky
mineral quality along with spice and a woodsy, though not quite sous bois, note
over top of the light red fruit. The tannins are noticeable, but very refined
and fine grained. Like other 1996s, the acidity clears the wine from your
palate and immediately demands another sip. I think this is on the early side,
even for someone like me who wants some fruit remaining in his wine. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-53613233402362691322012-10-26T08:25:00.003-07:002012-10-26T08:25:57.457-07:00Amazing SherryNo real notes because I was too busy having fun and catching up with friends, but I had several incredible sherries last night with <a href="http://www.demaisonselections.com/">Andre Tamers</a> at <a href="http://mateotapas.com/">Mateo</a>.<br />
<br />
The El Maestro Sierra Palo Cortado is among the best sherries I've ever had. Concentrated and weightless at the same time. A Burgundian trick. Also, the Amontillado 1830 and the Oloroso 1/14 are archetypes of their species.<br />
<br />
The César Florido Palo Cortado was richer and a bit less graceful, but stunning and long (but only 600 bottles). His Fino is my current go to. Really a great wine-type-beverage.<br />
<br />
The La Cigarerra Manzanilla Pasada was tangy, saline, vibrant, and long. Very cool stuff, but hard to find (well, all of these are). And of course the Manzanilla is its normal, delightful self.<br />
<br />
<br />the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-48629996467376598172012-10-25T08:14:00.002-07:002012-11-30T08:16:51.461-08:00Clos Guillot comes good<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>2009 Baudry Clos Guillot</b></u></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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Over the last couple of vintages, I really think that this
wine has come into its own. This is undoubtedly the best vintage of this wine
that I’ve had and I think shows the potential that so excited Matthieu.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I drank this at Vin Rouge with some hachis
parmentier and the combination of a cool autumn evening was superb. The nose
was compact but with fresh fruit and herbal notes and only a hint of a floral
edge. The palate had excellent concentration of fruit with a very strong stone
and mineral component. It really reminded me of the vineyard, which contains
lots of limestone in clay. While this was young and intense and concentrated,
the balance is impeccable. In past vintages, one or the other component would
stick out, but this wine is seamless. As much potential as it has, it was
delicious as a young wine (if you like that sort of thing). If there is any of this running around in your market (there is some on the interwebs, including Cave Taureau, shameless self-promotion) you should snap some up. This will be the
first vintage that I buy this cuvée in cellar quantity and people say that the
2010 is even better. I can’t wait to try it.</div>
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the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-45130337697797282832012-10-23T08:42:00.000-07:002012-11-30T08:18:01.181-08:00New content! Now with more Clos Rougeard!<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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Good friends Noel and Marie, with out of town guests Ben and
Brian, joined me and a couple of others for an al fresco bacchanal at Vin
Rouge. We supplemented bottles we brought with selections off of the excellent
list.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We started with a plateau d’huitres. The perfect foil?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>2010 Domaine de la Pépière Clos des Briords</b></u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From magnum. Piquant, vibrant and lithe, just as we’ve all
come to love and expect from Marc Ollivier. I hope that we all appreciate the
excellence that Marc provides at such a reasonable price. You could drink your
bodyweight in this and still want more.</div>
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<br />
<br />
With assorted salads and appetizers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>2010 Jean Manciat Mâcon Charnay Franclieu </b></u></span></div>
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I have been drinking a ton of Manciat lately. It’s an
interesting producer that often gets lost in the LDM portfolio behind Roally
and Thevenet. The wines are different in style and from a different area than
those wines, so liking one isn’t at the expense of the other. The Manciat wines
rarely seem to be botrytis marked. They are balanced, refined and utterly delicious
expressions of chardonnay. This magnum was a perfect complement to a warm, but
not hot, southern evening. Yellow and pitted fruits with some notes of
honeysuckle and flowers. Nice sense of grip from acidity. If you have the
willpower, and I don’t, you could certainly cellar this for a few years and be
rewarded.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ben had never had a Rougeard Le Bourg outside of a trade
tasting; that is, with some bottle age. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>1997 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg</b></u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is more than an ordinary bottle for me. This wine, I
purchased from David Lillie when he was still at Garnet. David had introduced
me to the excellence of Baudry, Breton and others and also Rougeard. I was a
graduate student at the time so it was hard to buy wines like this. David would
always hold me a bottle or two of Bourg and Poyeaux for me to purchase when I
could. Obviously, he didn’t have to do that, but it shows the kind of guy that
we all know and respect. This was my last bottle of 1997 and it was a pleasure
to drink. The palate is resolved, more or less. There are a bit of tannins that
add grit and bite, but the tactile experience is mostly silky. There are
tertiary aromas of tobacco, cocoa, earth interwoven with spice, cocoa and dried
red fruits. I think it is a bit of a tweener at 15 years old. It isn’t quite a
mature wine with nothing but savory aromas and bottle sweetness, but it isn’t
in that first great peak of a wine where it still has fruit but its structure
has basically found its adult form. Still, this is picking nits from a great
wine from a great terroir.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>2003 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg</b></u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To keep going with the #RougeardMania, we ordered this off
of the list and had it decanted. I’ve had great experiences with the 2003 Le
Bourg, but this was the best yet. Almost terrifying in its magnificence. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>1998 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard</b></u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fantastic bottle. Aromatically complex, fleshy, grippy and
seamless on the palate. Fruit, earth, and minerals dancing with cohesion.
Really triumphant syrah. If it doesn't have the wildness of Verset, it reeks of
class and breed. I think this still has some development to go, but it is in a
lovely spot now.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>2004 Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée</b></u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This was really hard to get my head around as it seemed shut
down and a bit reduced. I get hints of the pure sour cherry mashed with herbs,
tobacco and rocks, but it really is not expressive. The structure is still
dominant with the tannin squaring off like the Maginot line, impressively
engineered, but bound to give at some point. Croix Boissée can be such a tricky
wine to catch in the right place and I haven't yet mastered that art, despite
all my efforts. Since we've had enough wine and I am not really able to
understand it, I returned the wine to its bottle and re-corked to try later.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-48356619505682520072012-10-23T08:38:00.001-07:002012-11-30T08:18:14.250-08:00Here goes nothing...<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
After years on the sidelines, I’ve re-entered the wine
profession, albeit as a minority investor in a wine shop called Cave Taureau
located in Durham, NC. The majority owner and managing partner may already be
known to many of you. Noel Sherr was the manager of Chambers St. Wines in the
early part of the last decade moving to Heights Chateau, Slope Cellars, David Bowler Wines, and
finally Polaner Wines as a last NY stop before moving down here to NC. The other
minority partner and I feel lucky to work with someone of such a fine pedigree
who can bring a "real wine" sensibility to our area.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While we are focused on our local market, we welcome
e-commerce and other inquiries. We will do the whole schnook thing of sending
out emails, etc.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So like us on facebook, follow us on twitter, and check out
the e-commerce site (not live yet).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you'd like to be placed on our mailing list to receive
offers, send an email to noel@cavetaureauwines.com . You can also send any
inquiries to that address.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you are local, we will have Eric Texier in the store
Saturday October 27th for a sampling of his delicious wines.</div>
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<br /></div>
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What kind of idiot am I? </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-64516628617913597492011-06-07T10:23:00.000-07:002011-06-07T10:25:54.403-07:00Burgundy = goodOver an excellent dinner at Rue Cler as the fifth wheel to two of my good friends and their wives. I have to give special mention to an English pea fritter that was essentially a falafel made with English peas. It may not sound great or exciting, but it was beautiful; in its simplicity.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1997 J. A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Les Ménétrières<br /></span>Over the hill. Too bad. I had a magnum of the Clos with the boys at Terroir SF not too long ago that was fantastic.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2008 Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers<br /></span>This was my second time with this wine in the last two weeks. The previous bottle was a bit underwhelming, especially in comparison. I think it has to do with being opened about 5 hours before dinner. It was much more expressive than the previous bottle, but was still very pretty and light on its feet. I like the Neillon style and this should be better in a couple of years.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2005 Pernot Bâtard-Montrachet<br /></span>This was an excellent bottle, if a very young one. I’m someone who likes the qualities that white Burgundy shows when young and this had all those in abundance. Intense minerals and stones awash in white floral scents and yellow stone pit fruits. As the night wore on, it got even younger and the structure became mouthwatering to the point of excruciating. If I had other bottles, I’d hold off for another 3-5 before checking in again. Very, very good wine.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2001 Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras<br /></span>I opened this several hours before dinner and it really needed the air to open up. This is a more soil-driven, ferrous version of Chambolle. At an interesting place where the fruit is receding into something more permanent and the sous bois tones are starting to creep into the space left behind. This was complex on the nose and, at times, silky on the palate. I think this will really come into its own with a few more years in bottle. I’ll try another one in 3-4 years. I’ve been drinking my Barthod’s lately to try to figure out how they are aging and to determine future buying strategy. I was worried that they may never come around. I’m not really worried about that anymore. The wines are up there with Mugneret-Gibourg (an admittedly different idiom) for Burgundy.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2008 d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds<br /></span>This started off aromatically pure and full of crunchy red fruits and purple flowers. Lots of fun to drink and right in my wheelhouse for pinot noir. After a few hours is started to get a bit blowsy and fuzzy which I think is more a testament to stage of development than overall quality.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >N.V. Pinon Vouvray Brut Non Dosé<br /></span>Great with a simple plate of strawberries and whipped cream for dessert. Pinon Brut in all its forms obviates 95% of my Champagne needs.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-52900135603037254792011-05-26T07:10:00.000-07:002011-05-26T07:11:35.722-07:00Another experiment with surpising resultsEvery now and then, you learn something new about a wine you thought you knew and, maybe, an experiment pays off. I had more or less given up on the 1996 and 1997 Clos du Papillon years back after they seemed to go into an oxidized spiral. I decided to let a couple of bottles sit just to see what would happen.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1997 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon<br /></span>The first thing to grab me was the color, a light yellow tinged white rather than a golden color. The nose was full of pretty flowers and wet stones. What was piercing intensity as a young wine, was lithe grace as an older wine. On the palate, it was organized, but the big structure had faded to a latticework of slender, interconnected elements. The wine was lively on the palate, but in a mature wine way, not an intense puckering way. This is exactly how I had hoped these wines would turn out, but they never looked like they would get here. Maybe it was just a good bottle. Maybe as soon as they started showing weird, I should have hid all of my bottles. Anyway, as these things tend to work out, this was my last bottle. If you have any, I strongly encourage you to dip in.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-55050553812344026032011-05-17T12:27:00.000-07:002011-05-17T12:28:48.973-07:00Interesting experimentGrilled out with friends on a beautiful Spring evening.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2007 George Descombes Brouilly<br /></span>I’ve been really enjoying the Morgon lately from the same vintage and was curious about how the Brouilly was doing. Doesn’t have the same minerality or focus, but it does have really pretty fruit with herbal and floral notes. Not much on the tannin side, but the acids are present enough to keep freshness in the wine. I tasted from a bottle that showed much better a few days later. Maybe we should have let this get some more air. Regardless, I’d finish these off over the next few years.<br /><br />Next up, I had saved my last bottle of Franc de Pied from 2007 to have with my friends Noel, a natural wine aficionado. In case you don’t know, a portion of the Clos Guillot vineyards, which is rich in limestone and mostly clay, was planted Franc de Pied by the Baudry’s. Almost all the vines have succumbed to phylloxera by now, with only a couple of rows still alive, but they are probably not long for it either.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2007 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Franc de Pied<br /></span>It was interesting how different these wines started out. This was bigger and darker in terms of fruit and with deeper notes of leather. The contrast between the wines only grew with about an hour of air. The Franc de Pied became more diffuse and started to unravel, while the Clos Guillot became more complex as it stretched along its structural frame. The Franc de Pied are really not wines for aging, they are to be enjoyed in their exuberant joyful youth, as the Baudry’s intend.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2007 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot<br /></span>Much tighter on opening and dominated by an intense limestone quality. This reminded me of putting down lines for a football pitch in the early morning. This cuvee has been a bit of a mystery to me, seeming over the top in 2005 and odd in the context of the 2006 Baudry stable, I think that this vintage bears the idea that Matthieu is circling around what he wants from this site and starting to define it. There are also notes of fruit and herbs and meadows but they are all wrapped in that tangy package. The tannins are firm without being brutish or drying, the acidity strong, but not mouth-puckering. I haven’t bought Clos Guillot for the cellar in the past. Well, the past is the past as they say. This is worth trying now, although it should be better in a couple of years.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-90928023361397398352011-05-12T12:23:00.000-07:002011-05-13T13:43:42.255-07:00Old friends, all goodAn excellent night for wines as everything showed really well. Thanks to the guys at Vin Rouge in Durham for great food and service.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Viña Tondonia<br /></span>Great showing for this. Earthy onion skin notes lead into some pretty red fruits. There are some woodsy, herbal notes as well. Still some structure. Went really well with the sweetbreads dish on offer. I know people like to age these, but I don’t know why.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1994 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvée W<br /></span>This was stunning. The texture was rich and unctuous without being over the top and broad. Honey comb and yellow fruits allied with herbs and some minerals bring together a complete package. I really think that decanting this wine for about 45 minutes made a big difference. The is a cool sort of autolytic thing I get from this wine that reminds me of Bernard Morey Chassagne Caillerets. I really love Kalin wines and I realize I own none. I bought this bottle the day I drank it and have been doing the same for 10 years. The last time I bought Kalin to cellar was 12-15 years ago and those are long gone. This needs to change.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1996 Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées<br /></span>Opened and decanted for an hour and then returned to the bottle. By the time we drank it a couple of hours later, it had totally transformed from a wine that showed a lot of savory, umami and sous bois qualities to a wine that showed much more fruit compote with those other things sliding to the background. The structure did the same thing. At first, I was worried that this could be another screechy 1996 experience, but while the structure was present at first, it receded into a pleasant nuance and scaffolding for the flavors. While this was not one of those mind-bending bottles of Burgundy, it was excellent and thoroughly enjoyable.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-2438712131211619432011-05-09T07:13:00.000-07:002011-05-09T07:15:37.488-07:00A good showing for a 1996 Barolo, finallyI was finally able to drag my friend Matt to Bella Mia coal oven pizza the other day. Maybe isn’t on par with the best of New York, but it is damn good. Miles above anything else in NC and will surely be worth a mention of top pizza joints in the country one day.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2009 Do Ferreiro Albariño Rías Baixas Cepas Vellas<br /></span>OK, not an obvious choice to take to a pizza joint, but Matt wanted to drink it. There is something so saline and savory about this wine that is difficult to describe. Deep and intense and just makes you want to eat a Grand Plateau aux Fruits du Mer. Succelent and bracing at the same time. Profound.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1996 Marcarini Barolo La Serra<br /></span>This was exciting. A wine that is coming into its drinking window with beautiful tertiary aromas starting to come to the fore as the fruit steps backwards into the mélange. There was a beautiful warmth and leather quality to the palate. The tannins could still resolve a bit, but if you want to start busting into your stash now, you won’t be disappointed. I’ll drink another bottle in 2 or 3 years, but this should be rising towards a plateau that will last for 12 or so.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-10233420066351357242011-05-05T07:42:00.000-07:002011-05-05T07:46:05.584-07:00The happiest I've ever been about a corked wineAt J. Betski’s in Raleigh.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1999 Freie Weingärtner Riesling Smaragd <span style="font-style: italic;">Achleiten</span><br /></span>Deep golden/green color. The nose is still white pitted fruits and Achleiten stone. I can't think of another vineyard with this kind of stony signature. It really does smell like a glass full of rocks. I would have liked a bit more generosity on the palate, there was something that wasn't quite cohesive, keeping it from being excellent, but it was very good.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1999 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl<br /></span>Man, what a bummer. This wine has been a monument to Gruner Veltliner and I thought for a minute it might just be some mustiness that would blow off. That was not to be as it got more and more chlorinated as it was open. The strange thing is, I've never been happier for a bottle to be corked as it forced us to order from the list, and what we ordered blew our minds.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1993 Louis Jadot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots<br /></span>The nose was full of beautiful fruit with spice and sous bois notes developing around the edges. After a couple of hours of being open, it began to shut down a little bit. I think that it has a little upward potential if the structure resolves a little. It's close now, but the tannin are still a bit hard on the back end. It has great lift and the nose is amazing. Very much the Vosne side of Nuits.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2001 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche<br /></span>I opened this mid-afternoon on Josh's advice. By the time we tasted it at around 7 it was beautiful. Full meaty nose with hints of minerals, leather and other sauvage animal notes with some black and red fruit skins underneath. Really well put together. Smooth but still structured and cut. The structure was there to help the wine get across its meaning, not to dominate or distract. Given what the air did for it, I think this has years of development ahead of it. It is a hard wine to rate in the circumstances because the food wasn't geared to this type of wine, it was opened with another restaurant in mind. Really impressive and a singular expression of Côte-Rôtie.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1979 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese Sang<br /></span>We purchased this off the list at J. Betski's because the Hirtzbereger was corked. Man, what a great piece of luck. The color was an ambient golden. The nose was still full of gooseberries and slate with only a hint of diesel or milkyness. On the palate, the acids really lit the wine up, giving the sensation that it was glowing in your mouth. It was driving itself into pleasure centers of the brain that rarely get tickled, sensual and intellectual all at once. It was the sort of experience that just stops you dead in your tracks and you just have to say "Damn". Easily the best white wine of 2011 and a steal even of the list. It was so good that we ordered another bottle to enjoy over conversation with the chef and the owner of the restaurant. Really shockingly good and I'd advise anyone who runs across a bottle to buy post haste!the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-51444163166246560612011-04-26T09:31:00.000-07:002011-04-26T09:32:44.167-07:00What I do for my friendsWent to dinner at Rue Cler with Matt. Brought his two favorite wines since he is leaving for a month.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2002 Azienda Agricola Stanislao Radikon Jakot Venezia Giulia IGT</span><br />A deeper color than when I last had it. After some air, the nose really opens up. This is my favorite of the Radikon wines and while this bottle doesn’t have the intensity of past bottles, the 2002 vintage was probably not a great candidate for aging. Not that these bottles should be aged in any event.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2003 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg</span><br />This showed a lot of wood on first opening. After about an hour in the carafe, the wood started to become more of a complement, with notes of spice, rather than a focal point. This has excellent texture with a nose and palate that is pure Bourg. This wine, along with the 1997 of this and Breton’s Perrières of the same vintages, is the wine that made me question perceived wisdom about vintages and to start asking questions about how the wine can be so remarkable and fresh in such a hot and challenging year like 2003. What this comes down to is not so much ambient temperature, but soil depth. There is very little topsoil at Bourg and underneath is pure rock, according to Nady Foucault. The same is true of Perrières, according to Pierre Breton. This same topic came up a couple of years later with Kevin Harvey at Rhys when discussing his various vineyards. Although the Skyline wasn’t the coolest of his vineyards, it had the poorest soil which really makes the plant struggle to ripen and forces the roots very deep to find water.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-38686287386739109532010-12-22T11:58:00.000-08:002010-12-22T11:59:38.347-08:00HiatusMaybe permanent, maybe not.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-69049153672981264492010-11-10T07:39:00.000-08:002010-11-10T07:41:59.117-08:00Bourgueil and excellent roséVin rouge with Centerba crew<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2007 Alice et Olivier De Moor Bourgogne-Chitry<br />2008 Alice et Olivier De Moor Bourgogne-Chitry</span><br />This was surprising because I expected the 2007 to show more richness than the 2008 and it was the opposite. Calling either one big would be a mistake, but in comparison, the 2008 seemed fatter and plumper.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2007 Éric Texier Condrieu <span style="font-style: italic;">Janrode</span></span><br />Still showed well, but I would drink sooner rather than later. Eric is making the best expressions of viognier for my palate. This is not oily or glommy in the mouth and has beautiful floral notes on the nose instead of all that richness and lychee crap.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2002 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil <span style="font-style: italic;">Clos Sénéchal</span></span><br />I’ve always loved the 2002 Breton wines for their dashing, rapier-like personalities. This comes in at something like 11.7% alcohol and has an unmistakeable mineral tang to the blue and red fruits. The finishing tannin have a chalky quality to them, but in a good way. This is starting to loosen and I think will be in a window for a while. I’ll probably drink my other 6 bottles in as many years.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >1996 Pierre-Jacques Druet Bourgueil <span style="font-style: italic;">Vaumoreau</span><br /></span>Druet’s best site and it shows. Still some fruit left at the core and still has enough structure that there is some grip, this has matured into a fine example of Bourgueil.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2009 Domaine Brana Irouléguy <span style="font-style: italic;">Harri Gorri</span></span><br />A pale salmon rose, the nose is somewhat brambly and jumps at me right away. I like the briskness with a hint of tannin. I take it that this is a blend of cabernet franc and tannat and it has a bark-like spiciness to it. This was the first time I’ve had this so far this year, but it won’t be the last. One of the best rosé wines I’ve had this year.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-272356477626694495.post-90237830243549661162010-10-22T10:02:00.000-07:002010-10-22T10:03:31.016-07:00Bad news for 2002 BeaujolaisIn the past two weeks I have had both of the wines below and found them to be fading hard and losing their middle. I am surprised by this turn of events.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2002 Michel Tête Juliénas</span><br />Shot from the word go. Browning at the edges, dried out.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >2002 Coudert Fleurie <span style="font-style: italic;">Clos de la Roilette</span></span><br />Upon first opening, the smell of the cork and the aroma right out of the bottle was promising. In the glass it was also hollowed out in the middle. Damn.<br /><br />I’ve got a Desvignes Côte du Py on deck. If it’s toast, I’ll be pissed.the vlmhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01721550516880594363noreply@blogger.com3